Planning guide

Seven kitchen layouts, and how to tell which one your room will take

Layout is the first decision and the one everything else depends on. Each layout below is shown from four angles and in plan, with the sink–hob–fridge work triangle marked, alongside what it suits, what it demands of the room, and the mistake it invites.

Seven layouts

  • Straight
  • Parallel
  • L-Shaped
  • U-Shaped
  • G-Shaped
  • Island
  • Peninsula
Plan & elevation

Finishes

  • Walnut
  • Matte beige
  • Light stone
  • Matte black
  • Room fit
  • Work triangle
  • Counter space
  • Storage
  • Open-plan

Before you choose

Four things about the room decide most of it

A design consultation in progress: a floor plan open on the table with cabinet, stone and laminate samples laid out beside it, and a kitchen visual on a tablet
  1. 01

    How many walls are usable

    Windows, doors and passageways remove walls from the count. One usable wall means a straight kitchen; two adjoining means L; two facing means parallel; three means U or G.

  2. 02

    The width of the room

    Width sets the walkway. It is what rules out U- and G-shaped kitchens in narrow rooms, and islands in rooms that look big enough until you draw the clearances.

  3. 03

    Where the services already are

    Moving a drain is a real job; moving a gas point is a bigger one. Where the plumbing and gas enter the room often decides which wall the sink and hob go on.

  4. 04

    How many people cook at once

    One cook wants a tight work triangle. Two cooks want separated wet and dry zones, which is what makes parallel, U- and island layouts worth their extra width.


Layout 01 of 07

Straight / One-Wall Kitchen

Also called: Single-wall kitchen, linear kitchen, one-wall kitchen

Everything on one wall. The most compact arrangement there is.

Plan view of a straight kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

Sink, hob and storage all sit along a single run against one wall. It is the arrangement that asks least of the room, which is exactly why it works where nothing else fits. With no corners to solve, it is also the simplest and usually the least expensive layout to build.

Best suited for

  • Narrow rooms with only one usable wall
  • Apartment and studio kitchens
  • Open-plan spaces where the kitchen should recede
  • Utility or secondary kitchens

Key advantages

  • Fits rooms no other layout can take
  • No blind corners to solve
  • Simplest to build and usually the most economical
  • Leaves the rest of the floor completely free
Space considerations
The run length is everything. Below roughly 8 feet it starts to feel cramped, because sink, hob and fridge are competing for the same wall. There is no work triangle, so the counter length between the sink and the hob matters more here than in any other layout.
Storage potential
Go upward, not outward. Full-height tall units at one end and wall cabinets across the entire run, since there is no second wall to borrow from. Deep drawers rather than shelved cupboards make the single run hold considerably more.

Layout 02 of 07

Parallel / Galley Kitchen

Also called: Galley kitchen, corridor kitchen, two-line kitchen

Two facing runs with a walkway between them.

Plan view of a parallel kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

Two counter runs face each other across a central walkway. It is the most efficient layout for actual cooking, because everything is within a step or a turn. Splitting wet work onto one run and cooking onto the other keeps two people out of each other's way.

Best suited for

  • Rooms longer than they are wide
  • Households where more than one person cooks
  • Kitchens with a door or window at each end
  • Anyone who wants maximum efficiency in minimum floor area

Key advantages

  • The most efficient work pattern of any layout
  • Two full runs of storage and counter
  • Natural separation of wet and dry zones
  • No corner units to compromise
Space considerations
The gap between the two runs is the whole decision. Around 4 feet is the comfortable middle. Below roughly 3.5 feet, drawers and appliance doors on opposite runs clash and two people cannot pass. Much above 5 feet and you spend the evening walking between sink and hob.
Storage potential
Excellent, because both walls work for you. Keep cleaning and prep on the wet run and cooking and dry goods on the other, so the storage follows the task rather than being spread evenly.

Layout 03 of 07

L-Shaped Kitchen

Also called: Two-wall kitchen, corner kitchen

Two adjoining walls, one continuous corner run.

Plan view of a l-shaped kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

A single continuous counter turns a corner across two adjoining walls. It gives a genuine work triangle without demanding much floor area, and it leaves the remaining corner of the room free for a table. This is the layout that fits the widest range of Indian homes.

Best suited for

  • Most apartment and villa kitchens
  • Rooms where a dining table shares the space
  • Open-plan kitchens that need to feel contained
  • Anyone wanting a real work triangle in a modest room

Key advantages

  • Fits more rooms than any other layout
  • A genuine, comfortable work triangle
  • Leaves floor space for a table or an island later
  • Only one corner to solve
Space considerations
The corner is where cabinets go to die. A blind corner without a pull-out or a carousel gives you a cupboard you cannot reach into, and that is often a full cubic metre of wasted storage. Solve it at the drawing stage.
Storage potential
Very good, provided the corner gets a proper mechanism. The two runs give you enough length for a tall unit at one end without crowding the working stretch.

Layout 04 of 07

U-Shaped Kitchen

Also called: Three-wall kitchen, C-shaped kitchen

Three walls in use, with the cook enclosed on three sides.

Plan view of a u-shaped kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

Three connected runs wrap around the cook, putting everything within a turn. It gives the most storage and the most counter of any layout for a given floor area. You will sometimes see it called a C-shaped kitchen — it is the same arrangement.

Best suited for

  • Larger rooms with three usable walls
  • Households that store and cook in volume
  • Anyone who wants the most counter space possible
  • Kitchens where the doorway is on the fourth wall

Key advantages

  • The best storage-to-floor-area ratio of any layout
  • The most continuous counter run
  • A tight, efficient work triangle
  • Everything reachable from one standing position
Space considerations
It needs width. With three runs and two corners, a room under roughly 8 feet across will feel closed in. You also now have two blind corners rather than one, and the storage advantage only materialises if both get proper mechanisms.
Storage potential
The highest of the seven. Three runs of base and wall units, plus room for tall storage at one end — provided both corners are solved with pull-outs or carousels.

Layout 05 of 07

G-Shaped Kitchen

Also called: U-shaped with a return, peninsula-U kitchen

A U-shaped kitchen with a fourth, partial return.

Plan view of a g-shaped kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

A U-shaped kitchen with a short additional run turning back in from one end — the stroke that turns a U into a G. That return acts as a peninsula: extra counter, extra storage, and a partial screen between the kitchen and whatever is beyond it. It gives you the most enclosed working area of any layout.

Best suited for

  • Large kitchens that need maximum storage
  • Open-plan homes wanting the kitchen partly screened off
  • Households where one person cooks and wants everything to hand
  • Anyone who wants a breakfast edge without a full island

Key advantages

  • More storage and counter than a U-shaped kitchen
  • The return doubles as a serving or breakfast edge
  • Partially screens the kitchen in an open-plan room
  • Everything within a single turn of the cook
Space considerations
The most demanding of the seven. It needs a genuinely large room, and the return narrows the entrance — get that opening wrong and the kitchen feels like a corridor to get into. Three corners now need solving. Not a layout for a room that is merely "big enough".
Storage potential
The highest available, but only in a room that can carry it. Four runs of storage, and the return is ideal for the things you reach for least.

Layout 06 of 07

Island Kitchen

Also called: Kitchen with island counter

A freestanding counter separate from the main run.

Plan view of a island kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

A standalone counter sits clear of the perimeter runs, accessible from all four sides. It gives a second work surface and a social edge, which is why it suits open-plan homes where the kitchen is part of the living space rather than hidden away.

Best suited for

  • Open-plan kitchens and living spaces
  • Large rooms where the kitchen is a social space
  • Households that entertain while cooking
  • Anyone wanting seating within the kitchen

Key advantages

  • A second work surface independent of the walls
  • Natural seating and serving edge
  • The cook faces the room rather than a wall
  • Extra storage on the island sides
Space considerations
Islands are generous with space, not with it. You need roughly 3 feet of clear walkway on every side, so the room must be considerably larger than the island suggests. Putting a sink or hob in the island means running plumbing or gas into the floor — decide that before the slab work, not after.
Storage potential
Good, but treat it as a bonus rather than the backbone. The island typically holds occasional-use items; the perimeter runs still do the heavy work.

Layout 07 of 07

Peninsula Kitchen

Also called: Attached island, return counter, breakfast bar kitchen

An island that stays attached to the main run on one side.

Plan view of a peninsula kitchen layout S H F
Sink Hob Fridge Dashed line shows the work triangle

A counter projects out from the main run, connected at one end. Because it is attached, it only needs clearance on three sides rather than four — which is what makes it work in rooms where a true island will not fit.

Best suited for

  • Rooms that want an island but cannot give up walkway on four sides
  • Open-plan spaces needing a soft boundary
  • Households wanting a breakfast bar
  • Kitchens where an island would block circulation

Key advantages

  • The island effect at roughly two-thirds of the floor cost
  • Provides a breakfast or serving edge
  • Defines the kitchen edge in an open-plan room
  • Extra counter without a freestanding obstacle
Space considerations
Clearance is needed on three sides, not four. The return length needs care: too long and it blocks the main route into the room; too short and it is a shelf rather than a counter. It also creates one more corner where it meets the main run.
Storage potential
Good. The peninsula adds base storage and often a seating overhang, without the circulation demand an island makes.

Side by side

All seven layouts compared

Scroll the table sideways on a narrow screen. Ratings are relative to each other, not absolute — a "Moderate" storage rating on a compact layout may still be plenty for you.

Layout Suitable room shape Space Storage Countertop Multiple cooks Island / seating Open-plan
Straight Narrow or open-plan, one usable wall Compact Moderate Low Poor Possible Excellent
Parallel Long and narrow, two facing walls Compact High Good Good No Poor
L-Shaped Square or rectangular, two adjoining walls Medium High Good Workable Possible Good
U-Shaped Square or wide, three usable walls Spacious Very high Very high Good Possible Workable
G-Shaped Large, three walls plus a return Spacious Very high Very high Workable Yes Good
Island Large and open, clearance on all four sides Spacious High Very high Excellent Yes Excellent
Peninsula Medium to large, one open side Medium High High Good Yes Good

Combinations

Adding an island or a peninsula

These are not additional layout types. Each is one of the seven above with an island or a peninsula added, and each asks for more floor area than the layout it starts from.

  • Island — detached on all sides
  • Peninsula — connected to the main kitchen
  • Based on Straight / One-Wall

    Straight kitchen with island

    A one-wall run facing a freestanding island. Common in open-plan homes: the wall run holds the services, the island does the prep and the seating.

    Needs: A wide room — the island needs its own clearance on all four sides in addition to the wall run.

  • Based on L-Shaped

    L-shaped kitchen with island

    The most popular combination in larger homes. The L keeps a tight work triangle against the walls while the island adds counter, storage and a social edge.

    Needs: Roughly 3 feet of walkway between the island and both arms of the L.

  • Based on U-Shaped

    U-shaped kitchen with island

    Maximum storage and counter. Only viable in genuinely large kitchens, because the island sits inside the U and must not close the working area down.

    Needs: A large room. Measure the walkway on all three inner faces before committing.

  • Based on L-Shaped

    L-shaped kitchen with peninsula

    An L with a return projecting from one arm — effectively a G-shaped kitchen with a shorter return. Adds a breakfast edge without a freestanding island.

    Needs: Less floor area than an island. Watch the opening left for getting into the kitchen.

Concept visual — final layout depends on room measurements.

Rules of thumb

Clearances worth knowing before you plan

Working guidelines rather than regulations — but a layout that ignores them will feel wrong however good the finish is.

  • Top view of two parallel counter runs with a dimension arrow across the walkway between them ~4 ft RUN RUN

    Walkway between facing runs

    Enough for two people to pass, and for drawers on opposite runs to open at the same time. Below about 3½ feet they start to clash; much above 5 feet and you are walking between sink and hob all evening.

    Planning guide Around 4 feet is the comfortable middle.

  • Top view of a detached island with dimension arrows showing clearance on all four sides ISLAND ~3 ft ~3 ft

    Clearance around an island

    An island needs walkway on every side, which is why the room has to be considerably larger than the island itself. This is the single most common reason an island does not fit a room that looks big enough.

    Planning guide About 3 feet on every side.

  • Top view of a G-shaped layout with the entrance opening beside the return highlighted Opening RETURN

    The opening into a G-shaped kitchen

    The gap beside the return is how you get into the kitchen. Narrow it too far and the whole room reads as a corridor you have to squeeze through — which undoes the storage the G was chosen for.

    Planning guide Keep the opening generous; treat it as a doorway, not a gap.

  • Top view of a counter run with the hob centred and landing space marked on both sides HOB Landing Landing

    Counter beside the hob

    Somewhere to set a hot pan down, on both sides where the run allows. A hob pushed tight into a corner leaves you carrying a full pan further than you should.

    Planning guide Landing space either side, not just one.

  • Top view of a counter run with the sink set in, showing preparation space on one side and draining space on the other SINK Preparation Draining

    Counter beside the sink

    Preparation and draining both happen at the sink, so this usually wants the longest single stretch of clear counter in the kitchen.

    Planning guide The largest uninterrupted run you can give it.

  • Side elevation showing a base cabinet, worktop, backsplash and wall cabinet, with the vertical clearance between worktop and wall unit highlighted WALL UNIT BASE UNIT Clearance

    Wall cabinet height above counter

    High enough to work under without stooping, low enough that the top shelf is still reachable by the people who actually use the kitchen. Worth setting against the height of whoever cooks most, rather than a standard figure.

    Planning guide Set it to the household, not to a default.

Final clearances depend on verified site measurements.

Kitchen layouts

Frequently asked questions

How many kitchen layouts are there?

There are seven fundamental arrangements: straight (one-wall), parallel (galley), L-shaped, U-shaped, G-shaped, island and peninsula. Everything else you will see advertised is either a combination of these — such as an L-shaped kitchen with an island — or a style or construction method rather than a layout. A handleless kitchen or a profile-shutter kitchen, for example, describes the fronts, not the arrangement.

What is a G-shaped kitchen?

A G-shaped kitchen is a U-shaped kitchen with a short fourth run turning back in from one end — the stroke that turns a U into a G. That return works as a peninsula, giving extra counter and storage and partly screening the kitchen from the room beyond. It offers the most storage of any layout, but it needs a genuinely large room, and the opening left beside the return has to be wide enough that the kitchen does not feel like a corridor.

Is a C-shaped kitchen different from a U-shaped kitchen?

No. C-shaped is simply another name for the same three-wall arrangement, so we list it once as U-shaped rather than presenting it twice as though it were a separate choice.

Which kitchen layout is best for a small kitchen?

For a narrow room with one usable wall, a straight single-wall layout is usually the only sensible option, and the answer is to build upward with tall units and full wall cabinets. If you have two adjoining walls, an L-shaped layout will almost always give you more usable counter and a real work triangle in the same floor area.

How much space do I need between two parallel kitchen runs?

Around 4 feet of clear walkway is the comfortable middle. Below roughly 3.5 feet, drawers and appliance doors on opposite runs start to clash and two people cannot pass. Much above 5 feet and you spend the evening walking between the sink and the hob, which defeats the point of the layout.

Do I need a big kitchen for an island?

Bigger than most people expect. An island needs roughly 3 feet of clear walkway on every side, so the room has to be considerably larger than the island itself. Where that is not available, a peninsula gives a similar effect while only needing clearance on three sides, because it stays attached to the main run.

What is the kitchen work triangle and does it still matter?

It is the path between the sink, the hob and the fridge — the three points you move between constantly while cooking. It still matters, because it describes real movement rather than a style. Layouts that stretch it too far make you walk more; layouts that compress it too tightly leave you without counter space to put anything down.

Can you tell me which layout suits my room?

Yes, and it is a quick conversation. Send us the wall lengths, where the windows and doors are, and where the existing plumbing and gas points sit. That is usually enough to rule out two or three layouts immediately and to say which of the rest is worth drawing up.

Not sure which one?

Send your wall lengths and we will narrow it down

Wall measurements, window and door positions, and where the plumbing and gas already are. That is usually enough to rule out the layouts that will not work and recommend the ones that will.

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